by Christy Morgan
I’ve had the pleasure of spending 17 days in Canggu (pronounced chain-goo) at the surf and yoga resort Pelan Pelan. You can read all about my days at the retreat here on HappyCow. My breakfast and lunch was provided Monday through Friday but for dinner and on weekends I explored the surrounding area for vegan cuisine. What I found was a pleasant surprise! Here are just some of the many vegan meals I found in this small surfer town that won me over with it’s friendly people and tasty grub.
Peloton Supershop (Jln Raya Pantai Berawa, 8am-4pm, cash only) is one of the two all vegan restaurants in Canggu. I think it’s Australian owned so it has plentiful options of burgers and wraps, gorgeous salads, fresh juices and smoothies, & small plates. If I had been staying nearby I could have eaten here every day, except that they close at 4pm! I had the Be Strong smoothie (Spinach, Mango, Banana, Moringa Protein, Spirulina & Coconut Milk) and the Burn Out Burger (served on a Charcoal Bun with Caramelised Onions, Tomato, Purple Cabbage, Lettuce, & Vegan Mayo with a Side Salad & Sweet Potato Fries) and both were very good. Also had some shots of moringa, mangosteen, and turmeric so I didn’t lose my “healthy vegan” card. It’s a bit more expensive than some of the other places but worth it in creativity and tastiness. Even though it’s air conditioned, the large glass windows keep it pretty hot in there so an ice cold drink is a crucial start to the meal.
Green Ginger Noodle House (Jln Raya Pantai Berawa, 8am-9:30pm, takes credit cards) is a vegan cafe down the way from Peloton. It’s Asian fusion so if you’ve had a favorite dish somewhere across Southeast Asia you’ll find it here on the menu. My first meal there was Spring rolls, Pad Thai, and this beautiful White Tiger Salad to the right (roasted pumpkin, sesame, carrot, tempeh, pickled ginger, bean sprouts, cucumber & lime soy dressing). Then I got food delivered later in the week and opted for the Laksa (a flavorful noodle soup from Malaysia), which blew my mind.Bonus: the restaurant is air conditioned and actually cool inside making it a nice reprieve from the scorching heat and humidity. Everything was excellent and the staff is friendly. If you go to other parts of Bali you’ll notice that in general the local people in Canggu are very friendly and accommodating. I noticed this time around people in Ubud were not as friendly. Guess they are getting sick of the tourists.
Warung Bu Mi (Jl. Raya Batu Bolong No. 52, all day, cash only) was shown to me by another vegan who lives in Canggu part-time. It’s the cheapest vegan meal you can get and I went there 3 or 4 times during my stay. Warungs are traditional Balinese cafes that typically have a row of vegetarian/vegan dishes to choose from (along with a row of meat and seafood dishes). You either serve yourself and pay per pile of food or someone serves you as you point to what you want. It’s an experience called “Nasi Campur”. And you’ll pay a measly 25,000 (less than $2) for this huge plate of food. Each time I went I tried something different, but the pumpkin and red beans made it on my plate each time because it was that tasty. Some things had egg but it was pretty obvious what was vegan or not. The veggie dishes are typically vegan in Balinese cuisine anyways and Bu Mi does a good job of keeping most the bottom row of food veg, while the top row is the meat stuff.
Canteen (Jalan Batumejan No. 33, 7am-5pm, cash only) doesn’t tout itself as a vegan-friendly place but I found their menu easily adaptable and they serve the best coconut milk latte in town! I went here many mornings first thing to work on my computer before the brunch crowd rushed in. One time I had their smoothie bowl, topped with granola, toasted coconut, dragonfruit, and banana (featured right) another time I altered their bagel sandwich swapping out the salmon for tempeh and eggs for avocado. My last morning in town I had them make their breakfast quinoa bowl with tempeh instead of eggs. Easy and delicious. Staff is friendly enough and you’ll even get to strike up conversations with the nice western locals if you go early enough.
I also enjoyed the bowls at Poke Poke, and had a wonderful salad at Avocado Cafe (but sometimes they are out of avocado which is ironic). Betelnut was totally overhyped and I didn’t find many vegan things on the menu.
Do you have any favorites in Canggu? Be sure to leave them in the comments and tell us what you think of our choices!